On the foot of Everestback

09/09/2009 07:25 Sofia, flew off / land in Munich and after six hours stay at the airport checked baggage to Chengdu (China). In 14.00h. Again flew off / land in Amsterdam and after another hour and a half slop finally flew off to the airport for Kitay.Sled nine hours and a half flight of 10.09 in the morning 10.20ch. local time land in Chengdu, a small Chinese town (around 6 million), capital of Sichuan Province.

The formalities for visa checks, completing entry forms, health forms and do not know yet what form it took about one chas. The representative of Asia-Bike-Tours, Chen-Chen, we waited in the hall after the Receiver and the collection of the group of five Austrians , one Swiss and I and my wife Sylvia we took a bus .Po Hotel-Chen Chen had enough (half hour) time to tell us about the notorious "Sichuan Cuisine", "Chinese Opera", "Panda Reserve , things which are Chengdu is famous for the world and of course be entered into our program in this and the next day.
The hotel was quite decent, and since we had free time to 18.30ch., Me personally I left nothing but warm shower and thankfully, finally sleeping (I can not sleep in planes).
Chen-Chen us to the restaurant type Hot-Pot, which for me at least a big "still" in the middle, which is heated from the underside of gas filled with sesame oil and goodness knows how many chili-pepper spray Sichuan peppers . The food is served raw, as everyone made her put on her for 3 minutes (minimum) in this steamy, still pretty. "Turns out that there is an option" tank "is not hot, but of, although I've experimenter strongly refused .I remembered as soon Peruvian "light hot alpaca, but there was no turning back .... ok we will try. The waitresses started to bring any dishes from vegetarian toufu, bamboo, raw potatoes to meat balls, chicken meat in it (but later) realized pork throats. Emi released them in the tank and waited, but is to de-grew warm once our table to vryaha two "tank", and also and the neighboring two tables which were boiling four such similar or larger vessels, longer pomnya.Izglezhda those three minutes passed and attacked it ..... well, but after the second-third swallowing things very dim view gained, almost in tears, well, that at this time waitresses brought rice (white, cooked) in a seriously large bowl (it was hot), at least for some period of time in my mouth was something that I'm not set on fire.

Of all the neighboring tables (Chinese only), we watched with interest, great interest and laughter poured from, are hardly the first nor the last, but why not pozablyavat on our back?! Looked to the Austrians, some of them still struggling with the matches and were not tried by the "infernal boiling mixture, but to me the Swiss Daniel was breathing very difficult, and rapid drinking" Tsingtao Draft Beer ", Sylvia looked at me with tears, and the only correct action was to kindle a cigarette that certain smokers know how deystva.Tozi ritual was carried out, I feel like that you just came out of a sauna'm not that out was a cool (with humidity above 85%), but at least puff light-vyatar.Chen Chen, however, unperturbed meal and the other guests at the restaurant mezhduvprochem, we had to think about it ,..... that's what his thoughts to man ?!.... stay hungry and on the program which included a visit of Chinese Opera "(Changing Faces).

The building of the opera was not especially anything unless it is made in the old style (media), as construction was granted a clear modern masters.
The "opera" is more like theater of the actors, the most interesting part is changing masks and clothing during the show. It' is attractive, but nothing more than a number of reasonably-trick of "Mag".

Next 11:09, it was far more interesting in terms of our visit to Chengdu "Panda Reserve". Reserve a mostly with the number of Pandas, namely 18 units, but also with rare red Panda.It was great fun.

Red panda

Next visit and the largest monastery in Chengdu (apologize ... I forgot his name).

Clean, tidy and most importantly .... the restaurant in the complex (such as a monastery), vegetarian and quite accessible to the taste of.

After visiting the small shop for silk products ..........

yard workshop

That evening from Central Station, Chengdu that leave by train to Lhasa, Tibet, as preliminary data, after 45 hours, had to arrive in Lhasa.

All occupants of sleeping carriages passed through Lhasa for VIP section .... weird.

Kindly invited us to go into separate rooms for tea, coffee and other recreational drinks. Why? Because after a long queue waiting th (check point) for verification of documents, residence permits in Tibet, even filling out a health declaration that their able-bodied and fully realize all the "inconvenience" of altitude and in no way you can have claims against Chinese authorities, resulting from health character. This procedure lasted around one hour for all of our group. In brief: patience with which must be loaded. As we waited in the queue causal met with the Dutch, who traveled with wheels, but in this case to Lhasa by train and from there to Kathmandu, about 1700 km. Subsequently detected several times along with them to Everest Base Lager.Admires to their desire on these altitudes pedaling .......
Verification completed successfully and started the offensive in a sleeping car accommodation ....... DRAMA .... could not get together in a compartment, a baggage not to mention.

Somehow we got together, two of the Daniel Group (Swiss) and his father Stefan (Austrian) went into the next compartment and the other Herbert, Brigitte, Stephen son of Sylvia and I, together with all the luggage in a kupe. however, was not great drama ....., but it was to say that the train windows, both inside the body and out into the corridor is not opened .....

All was well until the lights in 22.30 was shut .... I need not say how many were flowery expressions of both the German and the Bulgarian ... 


Nyau us .... nen nen nyau us, etc., or something like that could be heard at the end of the corridor (I forgot to say that the compartments have doors) with a uniform patter big spoons, dishes and utensils are suchlike selling breakfast (strong words, rather like what our grandmothers of the village give some domestic animals), which on top and smelled feverish.

Crazy work ... all this happened in 07.30ch even teeth were not washed yet.
After "breakfast is abundant," the ritual began filling flasks with hot water ... tea, tea time, to right, but we wanted my coffee ..... ekskyuz ... du yu hev buckets?
Aaaa cafe yo me !!!!!....Daniel went to the diner looking for coffee ... but returned after only two or three minutes, said it was impassable, as the Indian station.
Emmy left us to wait, however, the train stopped at a station, with our hope for coffee.The train stopped at large station, the city looked great, but so what .... coffee me yo!!Well, at least there RedBul, Coca-Cola, various sweets, crackers, all very strange taste, but at least something.

Satisfied with RedBul in hand

So it was throughout the day, stopped the train just another place during the day and two more stations in the next day, but coffee me yo!,, but at least there were beautiful views, though the window.

In many places, the railway line looks like this:

Overnight stewards gave oxygen masks in case of need.  around 16.00 the next day, after 43 hours on a train, arrived in Lhasa.
Lhasa Railway Station, very serious and spectacular facility honestly did not expect (unfortunately no photos, military police forced us to remove them), with several check-poynts verification of documents again. Our guide Dzhabu we waited outside the station. accommodate our bus and headed for the Yak Hotel.The first thing that impresses is the chaotic traffic and numerous horns . we were in Lhasa, and they are all interesting still to come.In first courtyard of the hotel had many vehicles , there was only one gap in his parked near the number 7 Royal Enfield Bullet 500. I thought, Henry (organizer of the tour-Austrian) has senses and has delivered more valuable motors.At this time he went out from the hotel bar with Richard (Austrian, who did not want to travel by train, instead only for two hours by plane), the first question I asked is when Henry will test Indian bikes? So they are not our , he replied, they will arrive tomorrow.I decided that will not spoil our mood.

After dinner, we started, high and fast lap in the central part of Lhasa. However, decided to take the camera with me.
Everywhere boiled life.

From the street came a street in the central square.

From here the view to "Pot" was amazing.

On the way back we decided to go back to rickshaws, which cost us 100 yuan (10 million), as its called, .... it turned out that local tariff is 5 yuan and 10 yuan for foreigners. ... earned at least two or three days ahead.

For the day program included a visit to "Norbulinka" summer palace of the Dalai Lama No. 12,13,14 th, and also Monastery Sera.

On the way to the summer palace, the thing that makes a strong impression is that is clean, tidy and people are smiling and polite and mostly dressed Colorful, all of which invoke associations of Cuzco, Peru.

Dimo you ...

The "Norbulinka and children even go to prayer.

Before our visit to the monastery is applied lunch Dzhabu chose him in the center of Lhasa, between gay and motley crowd .It was very pleasant to sit on the second floor of the restaurant and watch what happens to the bazaar.

"Sera Monastery", before the invasion of China, there lived over 1000 monks.V currently live not more than 400 monks.

The monks who live here still hold different examinations of the younger subjects as may be all of life, science, theology, sociology, etc., while the right answers, examiner clap hands.Some of them are very artistic.

The drawings were everywhere on the rocks around and above the monastery.


The next day came in the program visit potash.

"Pot", something that was seen only in "Seven Years in Tibet." Emblem of Tibet, stands majestic and magical as the most likely built in 7 centuries far from the Dalai Lama # 5.

Since its entry into the palace, is only available for one hour sightseeing.Photos are allowed only from outside and set it to level.Photos and video inside the palace and other monasteries and palaces is strictly prohibited.
Climbing stairs even the first level has a private challenge .I was left without air breathing "battery", but interest and my curiosity was stronger than my lungs. 4,000 m above sea level again. Is not too difficult (that is to be seen).

Left side of the palace was used as a temple for prayers and meditation, the Dalai Lama and his entourage, while the right half of the palace was the administrative which has committed the administration of Tibet.
Right part:

Left part:

Feet no end

Finally we reached the top and then started the actual tour inside the palace and in the chambers of the Dalai Lama, in which guests receive a formal persona room (place) in which meditated (meditation Lama is a minimum of week).Nared and rooms and visited this part which was used as a temple, which today are kept relics of most deceased Dalai Lama.

After lunch look at a monastery built by the Dalai Lama # 5, also in distant seventh century, but he already seemed very uninteresting after potash.
The dinner was organized in Tibetan folklore style, focuses on how Tibetan Yak has been tamed by the locals.

The program for the next day was departure from Lhasa towards Gianttse.

In lowering the gangway to Gianttse, the landscape really changed .I don't  know how much land is fertile, given that the territory between Gianttse Shigattse and is considered the granary of Tibet, but definitely the scenes on the side of the road, at least not talking about it.

The fortified wall, which saw the entry into Gianttse was impressive and behind it was to be located Palcho Kum-bum Monastery.

Morning was very cold and began examining the monastery.The bigger part of the group, including Sylvia decided that it would embark to the highest point in the monastery, where the view of the valley was great. I decided to scip and take a photos

These "keg" (I tell them so) turn of the Tibetans in a clockwise direction, but the purpose should at least to Budist.Non-Buddhists can also rotate them, but the direction counterclockwise.

While I did, little children hang with me ....

... And I wanted to hang, but somewhere lurked Silvia ..

Others were not asleep .... looks ...

The group was coming back and proceeded to Shigattse where we had to lunch, but the main purpose of the day was Sakiya.Malko before arriving in Shigattse, we surpassed a BMW, second, third, not SG, ehey .... what was it ?, at first thought to have a large group of travelers traveling and of course they stopped, and we followed them.
It turned out that Mexican group has hired bikes in Hong Kong and moved on the same route eeeehhh ...... how much they envied! ... Even one with 650 floors.

Jorge knew that I am from Bulgaria ..... oooh, but you have these chili-peppers and eat them the same way ... with Bob laugh ...... great ... and the Austrians no attention is not turned, but with me and Sylvia they took a lot of photos.
Shigatse is the second largest city in Tibet and on the way back from Everest we would stay two nights.
Sacchi arrived in late afternoon.

Sacchi is a small town, but very large and even very dirty hotel.The toilet in the room did not work, "white" sheets were gray, and residues from carpet could understand those who stayed with us before .They changed the room.. the sheets have already been colored with graphite, but at least the toilet and shower worked.

In the morning we left with "200" hotel and we stopped to look at local "Sakya-Kumbum Chorten Monastery, built in 1073g. From Mongols gratitude to the Dalai Lama # 5.
Here we reward allowed to film inside the monastery.

Headed in the direction of Everest base camp 1.Valnuvashta number was just thinking about what we will face.With every kilometer draw near, the morning was clear and i kept hope deep inside that will have a chance to see him without clouds.We went to pass Pang-pass 5,120 m, which is indeed the official gate of Qomolangma National Reserve.Almost anyone or even everyone who passes by here stops to tie streamer with the five basic colors for good health and energy.

Quite quickly rushed to the village of Tingri, official Check-Point for the last 110 km. To first base lager.Obyad after that very thorough inspection by the authorities of permits, visas and a whole bunch more documentation.

To be continued,


8 km. after check-Point-a, the path is separated from the main G-318 connects Shanghai to Kathmandu and from here to our base camp 102 km imminent. black macadam road type, serious digging and rutted by heavy rains and cars.The climb steeply to pass Gyatso-Lapass 5,220 m from which to view was 8 thousands insanitive.

The time was 14:30, well clouds had appeared in the sky and Everest itself was shrouded in thick .Dissapointment, the only thing left I was hoping that in the remaining 55 km., Modern weather situation will change.There was no sense to lose time and started to drop as the views from this country have such .....

Dutch caught up with the wheels, and overlooked the Germans who went before me and I stopped at the lowest in any village to buy water and cigarettes.

V next hour the only thing I remember is a gas, overtaking trucks, SUVs and so even when I reached the last check-Point, which of course I stopped .
He wanted me documents permit preminavane.Kak tell him that Dzhabu which is somewhere in the jeep will come along at least an hour? Well how? It would benefit from English, so I drove into Bulgarian.
-You see, that is before us Chomolungma? Tell you see in December?
He merely nodded.
-Clear all know !.... indicated its sun and Everest showed him my watch that never wear, and then the camera he repeated several times and Jeep documents and DZHABU coming ..... and he was gracious and smiled ... and let me go .... I could not believe !!!!!
Gas, water .... over my mouth and blind, but he was ahead of me, without a single cloud .... all.

I pulled up and shot camera .On the sun was nice, but the shade chill.Temperature hardly exceeded 18 C. Dzhabu said he remembers from when not seen so clearly Everest.

At any time, even light a cigarette ...

Belonged to the sleeping quarters of Rongphu Monastery, the highest in the world monaster.Everything was Spartan was without water, electricity and toilets .... any-where found, but this practice did not matter.

Sleeping quarters are behind this busy Cc.

Evenings spent in the main room (tea) with fireplace in the middle of which is shining, drank hot tea, and dinner that even-Tibetan Noodle Soup and meat of yak, is how not to sleep as a baby in the Everest ?!!!!

Everest at sunset!

Goodnight from Everest and me !!!!!

Early morning was very cold, the bikes seats were covered with frost and the wind was chilling.Wrap ands loaded on the bus and went to camp sashtiskiya again cloudless and Everest from here .... ha seemed to apart.

Several hours later we walked back scrutiny of passports, documents, visas, etc. in Tingri, which last an incredibly clear night in the hotel was only surprising for this small village.
At 20:09 am headed for Shigattse again in the same passage Pang-pass 5,120 m, but stopped shortly before the passage of the exit with a great view farewell to "Lord of the peaks. Do not say goodbye, he just said goodbye.

In Shigattse arrived early afternoon . Second largest city in Tibet, but only as much to do with Lhasa in any way.Very dirty, messy. Unfortunately Shigatse Yak Hotel looked like a city, although in the backyard had grandiose spa.
Tashilunpo Monastery monastery best known to the 250 kg golden statue of Buddha build in  1447g. But unfortunately it was closed for one week due to a religious festival.
Dinner at a great restaurant owned by nepalets as the kitchen was international, including European, the most important was coffee, a real cafe.

And here's how to prepare rice restaurant

The morning started our walk from the scene (the courtyard) which was held festival.Na lawn were hundreds, not to say thousands, like ours of Rhodope council.

The program began with a strange dance for us and even more odd participants.

and others who played skits

However, at some time in the monastery tuck how .... let us not know?